Britain
Britain wears its history unusually close to the surface.
Castles became houses, monasteries became ruins, medieval streets grew into modern towns, and gardens and great estates changed with the generations that inherited them.
Across the country, buildings and landscapes preserve evidence of how people lived, worshipped, governed, worked and adapted.
Explore Britain through the places where those stories can still be seen.
Castles & Stately Homes
Power, ambition, comfort and taste, written in stone.
From medieval strongholds to great country houses, these places reveal how Britain’s rulers, landowners and families lived—and how their homes adapted as the world around them changed.
Wrest Park — Order, Ambition and the English Landscape
Wrest Park was something of a surprise. Glenn and I had based ourselves at the Gardener's Cottage at nearby at Audley End, and knew very little about Wrest Park beyond a vague awareness that it was an English Heritage property with notable gardens. Well, the gardens...
Holkham Hall — Power, Taste, and the Grand Interior
Tucked along the windswept north coast of Norfolk, Holkham Hall is a marvel of 18th-century Palladian architecture—majestic yet restrained, classical yet rooted in the rhythms of working land. It’s a house that wears its ideals proudly: harmony, balance, and...
Warwick Castle and The Wars of the Roses
At Warwick Castle the past does not feel distant. The towers rise solidly above the River Avon, their thick stone walls suggesting permanence and authority. Castles were built to project exactly that impression. Strength. Stability. Control. Yet the history that...
The Castle That Contained a King—Lincoln and The Anarchy
It was quiet the day we visited Lincoln Castle. The sun bounced off the high curtain walls, the grass in the old motte was lush and soft, and the Victorian prison—now a museum—hummed faintly with the sounds of schoolchildren and subdued commentary. But make no...
Lincoln Castle—Justice, Silence, and the Architecture of Control
Set high on the hill beside the Cathedral, Lincoln Castle has always loomed large—both literally and symbolically. , On a recent visit with my husband, Glenn, and our youngest daughter, Lauren, as we wandered its stone walls and peered into the prison cells, I...
Swiss Cottage: Queen Victoria & Prince Albert’s Vision for Self-Sufficient Royals
While Osborne House dazzles with its grand Italianate design, Swiss Cottage tells a different story—one of practicality, education, and industriousness. Nestled in the estate's grounds, this charming alpine-style cottage was more than a playhouse; it was a classroom...
Houghton Hall: A Masterpiece of Palladian Splendour
Nestled in the rolling countryside of Norfolk, Houghton Hall is a testament to the grandeur of 18th-century Palladian architecture. It’s easy to be dazzled by the symmetry, the scale, and the sheer elegance of it all. But behind every arch and column lies a mind—and a...
Osborne House & Gardens: Queen Victoria’s Private Retreat
Tucked away on the Isle of Wight, Osborne House was more than just a royal residence—it was Queen Victoria's sanctuary. Built between 1845 and 1851, the estate became the private retreat where Victoria and Prince Albert could escape the rigours of court life and enjoy...
Hatfield House—The Seat of the Cecils, Marquesses of Salisbury
A House Built for Power Hatfield House is a grand testament to the ambitions of Robert Cecil, 1st Earl of Salisbury, the younger son of William Cecil, Elizabeth I's trusted advisor. Built in the early 17th century, it replaced the Old Palace of Hatfield,...
Burghley: An Elizabethan Jewel with a Theatrical Heart
Few country houses in England can rival the grandeur, artistry, and sheer theatricality of Burghley House. Rising like an opulent stage set on the edge of Stamford, Burghley is the ultimate expression of Elizabethan power and prestige—a house built not...
Kelmscott Manor
Nestled in the heart of the Oxfordshire countryside, Kelmscott Manor is a testament to the enduring beauty of the English Arts and Crafts movement. This 16th-century farmhouse, with its honey-coloured limestone walls and steep gabled roofs, was more than just a...
Hardwick Hall — A Testament to Power, Politics, and Unapologetic Grandeur
"Hardwick Hall, More Glass than Wall" Rising imperiously from the Derbyshire landscape, its vast windows glitter in the sunlight, a defiant statement from its formidable creator. Bess of Hardwick, the woman who outpaced four husbands, amassed a staggering fortune, and...
England in the Autumn Part III
Picking up from England in the Autumn Part II, we departed from South Lodge at Montacute. We were going to Grantham to stay at another National Trust self-catering cottage, No. 1 Belton, on the Belton Estate. The house was built in 1896 for the Clerk of Works, a...
England — East Anglia and Kent
Though we were in England for only ten days on this trip, it was jam-packed with houses, castles, and gardens. The first leg of our journey was exploring the Royal Palaces In and Around London. From there, we drove to Essex to The Head Gardener's House at Audley End,...
England — Royal Palaces in and around London
The first leg of our most recent trip to England began with a 10 pm arrival at the Mayfair Townhouse just off Piccadilly, across from Green Park. Having arisen at 2:30 am to catch a very early flight out of Toronto, we had no trouble falling asleep promptly. Very...
The Old Palace, Hatfield House
The Old Palace at Hatfield was the childhood home for all three of Henry VIII's children but is most closely associated with Elizabeth I. During happy periods in her childhood, it was where Elizabeth shared her brother Edward's education. Later, it served as a refuge...
England 2023 Week #3—Northumberland to Bibury
The final leg of our journey started with a five-and-a-half-hour drive—from Beverley in Northumberland to Amberley, near Arundel, to attend the Goodwood Revival. As described on their website, the Revival is The only historic motor race meeting to be staged entirely...
England Week #2—Derbyshire to Northumberland
Our travel to England revolves around finding unusual places to stay within reach of castles, cathedrals and stately homes we want to visit. At the end of Week #1, we bid goodbye to the Russian Cottage on the Chatsworth Estate. From there, we drove north to Bamburgh...
England Week #1—London to Derbyshire
We've been back from England for a few weeks now and are now fully recombobulated. I was determined to promptly process all the photos I took on the journey and set myself the task of going through all 1693 photos at the rate of 100 a day. That's done (whew). So now...
Stirling Castle
Castles have a long and complex history, much more so than stately homes. Fortified structures built during the middle ages by the nobility or royalty, their primary purpose was defence—keeping those inside the castle walls safe and keeping the violent attackers out....
England in the Autumn Part II
Following our time in England in the Autumn. Determining which train to take to Chichester was more complicated than I had envisioned. Staff shortages, line repairs, and similar disruptions ruled out the usual route from Victoria Station. Lauren and I eventually...
England in the Autumn
The long-awaited, oft-rescheduled trip to England was a heady mix of emotions: apprehension as to how difficult it might be to navigate changing requirements, elation at the freedom of travelling again, disappointment and frustration with the National Trust, amusement...
Sudeley Castle
Most of the grand manor houses we see in England have a history involving a lot of ups and downs. Sudeley Castle is the veritable Snakes & Ladders of the genre. The tale began innocuously enough with a commonplace event: William le Boteler of Wem married heiress...
Harewood House Part II
Good day, everyone, and welcome to Harewood House Part II. Sorry for the delay in providing the sequel to Harewood House Part I. Travel and the holiday season got the better of me in the intervening period, but I'm determined to tie off as many loose ends as I can...
Abbeys, Monasteries & Churches
For centuries, religious houses stood at the heart of British life.
Their surviving buildings and ruins tell stories of worship, learning, wealth, community, upheaval and adaptation—from medieval foundations through Reformation and beyond.
St Martin-in-the-Fields: An Architectural Gem at the Heart of London
At the northeast corner of Trafalgar Square stands one of London’s most iconic churches, St Martin-in-the-Fields. With its grand portico, soaring spire, and rich history, it is not just a place of worship but also a symbol of architectural elegance and a hub of...
St. Etheldreda’s Parish Church: A Sanctuary of History and Legacy
A Church with Deep Roots St. Etheldreda’s Church stands just outside the grounds of Hatfield House, deeply entwined with the history of the Cecil family and the broader Tudor and Stuart political landscapes. While its origins date back to the medieval...
England 2023 Week #3—Northumberland to Bibury
The final leg of our journey started with a five-and-a-half-hour drive—from Beverley in Northumberland to Amberley, near Arundel, to attend the Goodwood Revival. As described on their website, the Revival is The only historic motor race meeting to be staged entirely...
England Week #2—Derbyshire to Northumberland
Our travel to England revolves around finding unusual places to stay within reach of castles, cathedrals and stately homes we want to visit. At the end of Week #1, we bid goodbye to the Russian Cottage on the Chatsworth Estate. From there, we drove north to Bamburgh...
England Week #1—London to Derbyshire
We've been back from England for a few weeks now and are now fully recombobulated. I was determined to promptly process all the photos I took on the journey and set myself the task of going through all 1693 photos at the rate of 100 a day. That's done (whew). So now...
Lacock Abbey
Lacock Abbey is probably the strangest and coldest house we've visited among the National Trust properties. Doesn't it look like something out of Wuthering Heights? The origins of the property date from the early 13th century when an Augustinian nunnery was...
Bath
We’ve been in Bath for almost a week now, much to the surprise of everyone we meet here. Usually tourists come for only a day or so, but we have been very comfortably ensconced in a flat in the Royal Crescent, arranged through Rural Retreats.
The Cathedral Project
Britain’s cathedrals are history in layers.
Norman arches, Gothic vaults, chantry chapels, shattered shrines and Victorian restorations preserve centuries of changing belief, architecture and ambition. Explore them through stories, a timeline, map and architectural tapestry.
What I Didn’t Know at Exeter—And What’s Next for Entertablement Abroad
Forty-two cathedrals, ten years, and one curious Canadian I didn't set out to build a catalogue of cathedrals. Or stately homes. Or rebellious reformers. Or ecclesiastical power plays. I just liked beautiful places. It began with a trip to Devon and a visit to Exeter...
England in the Autumn Part III
Picking up from England in the Autumn Part II, we departed from South Lodge at Montacute. We were going to Grantham to stay at another National Trust self-catering cottage, No. 1 Belton, on the Belton Estate. The house was built in 1896 for the Clerk of Works, a...
The Dissolution of the Monasteries
In April of 1536, the 27th year of King Henry VIII's 38-year reign, more than 800 monasteries, nunneries and friaries were nestled across England — communities of prayer and devotion for abbots, monks, priors and nuns who provided sanctuary, tended the sick and...
Cathedrals in the 20th Century and Beyond (1900 to present)
Previous post in the series: The Victorians to the Rescue New dioceses and their cathedrals continued to appear in the 20th century, though the pace of restoration of earlier cathedrals slowed. And people being people, arguments over preferred styles continued. George...
The Victorians to the Rescue (1820–1900)
Previous post in the Series: Dissolution and Decline As the Industrial Revolution took hold, the general population saw a sustained rise in income and living standards for the first time in history. People flocked to newly industrialised towns in the North of...
Dissolution and Decline (1534-1820)
Previous post in the series: The Dizzying Heights of Perpendicular Gothic The Norman King William the Conqueror launched the great English medieval Cathedral, and Tudor King Henry VIII wrought its end. Incandescent with rage at the Pope's refusal to annul his marriage...
The Dizzying Heights of Perpendicular Gothic (1350 – 1530)
Previous Post in the series: Decorated Gothic While Edward III remodelled his murdered father's tomb at Gloucester in 1330 to create a more fitting memorial, the Decorated Gothic period was drawing to a close. Perpendicular Gothic, which followed, moved the focus to...
Decorated Gothic (1250-1350)
Previous Post in the series: Early Gothic Cathedrals Henry III (1216-1272) was only nine when he became king; by the time he assumed power in his own right in 1227, his regent had soothed the turbulent waters left by his truculent sire, King John, through the...
Early Gothic Cathedrals (1170-1250)
Previous post in the series: The Normans and Their Cathedrals The hallmark of the Gothic era, the pointed arch, made its way from France to England just in time to rebuild the east end of Canterbury Cathedral after its devastating fire of 1174 (the second within a...
The Normans and Their Cathedrals (1066-1170)
William the Conqueror got more than he bargained for in 1066. The plan: sail to England, defeat English King Harold, launch a charm offensive, have a Coronation at Westminster Abbey and win over the Saxon earls. Normans and Saxons live in two-part harmony. Job done....
England’s Anglican Cathedral Tapestry
England's 42 Anglican Cathedrals share a tumultuous political history, or tapestry, which plays out in each unique Cathedral Story. It all starts with the Romans, a sophisticated and organized bunch if ever there was one. Their aqueducts provided running water, their...
Cathedrals and Coronations
London is abuzz with preparations for the Coronation. When we visited in early April, the street in front of Buckingham Palace was already closed off, with tiered seating erected across the Mall and nearby Green Park. The scale of preparation for the historic event is...
Birmingham Cathedral
Unabashedly Baroque, the Cathedral Church of St. Philip was initially a parish church, joining the Cathedral ranks only in 1905, and is one of the smallest of their number. In the early 18th century, Birmingham's burgeoning metal industry prompted building of a larger...
Blackburn Cathedral
The Diocese of Blackburn was carved out of the Diocese of Manchester in 1926, and the parish church of St Mary the Virgin became Blackburn Cathedral. Blackburn asserts evidence of Christian activity since 596. In 1820, when the foundations of the oldest part of the...
Bradford Cathedral
Bradford is one of three Cathedrals in the Diocese of Leeds, the others being Ripon and Wakefield. The present church, the third on the site, was built in the 15th century and incorporated elements from the previous building. Standing high on the hillside above the...
Bristol Cathedral
vMost medieval cathedrals grow younger from west to east. The western portion, almost invariably the nave, was built first. Fancy add-ons—choirs, presbyteries and lady chapels—were tacked onto the east as energy, war-free interludes, and funds permitted. Bristol is...
Bury St Edmunds Cathedral
Bury St Edmunds is a gorgeous little market town in Suffolk, East Anglia with a very colourful history. Originally known as Beodericsworth (thank goodness some place names became simpler over time), Bury St Edmunds owes its modern name to two very different things....
Canterbury Cathedral
Canterbury Cathedral is magnificent in and of itself. Still, it's probably most famous for being the site of the murder of Thomas à Becket, the Archbishop who repeatedly clashed with King Henry II (husband of Eleanor of Aquitaine, a pretty powerful woman in her own...
Carlisle Cathedral
The diminutive Carlisle Cathedral is the most northerly of the medieval cathedrals and larger than only Derby Cathedral, the smallest. Throughout the middle ages, the town of Carlisle was the site of constant border skirmishes between the Scots and the English, and...
Chelmsford Cathedral
The Church of St. Mary the Virgin became Chelmsford Cathedral following a cranky contest in 1913 to choose a suitable site for the new Cathedral to serve East London. Unfortunately, funds proved short, so plans for a new building were quickly abandoned, but in 1923,...
Chester Cathedral
A former Benedictine Abbey set in a walled Norman city, Chester Cathedral, has the works. Its architecture comprises 11th-century Norman to 18th-century Gothic revival and every style in between. Chester, a cathedral city (obviously), has some of the best-preserved...
Chichester Cathedral
If Exeter Cathedral is a sumptuous white wedding gown, Chichester Cathedral is a grey morning suit with a particularly vibrant waistcoat. Chichester Cathedral's predecessor, Selsey Abbey, was founded in 681 by the irascible Wilfred of Ripon, famous for championing the...
Christ Church Cathedral, Oxford
Good morning and Happy Groundhog Day! Today we are picking up in Oxford and as it's also a Sunday, in place of attending a church service, we will visit Christ Church Cathedral. Lovely spring flowers greet us at the entrance. Christ Church is a joint...
Coventry New Cathedral
What on earth were they thinking? When the war ended in 1945, more than 2 million homes in the UK had been destroyed or badly damaged, leaving millions of people homeless. Transport, infrastructure and industry had all sustained massive damage. Food was in short...
Gardens
Gardens are never merely decorative.
They reflect changing ideas about beauty, nature, status and leisure—from formal geometry and sweeping landscapes to Arts and Crafts borders and the intensely personal gardens of individual owners.
Wrest Park — Order, Ambition and the English Landscape
Wrest Park was something of a surprise. Glenn and I had based ourselves at the Gardener's Cottage at nearby at Audley End, and knew very little about Wrest Park beyond a vague awareness that it was an English Heritage property with notable gardens. Well, the gardens...
Hatfield House—The Seat of the Cecils, Marquesses of Salisbury
A House Built for Power Hatfield House is a grand testament to the ambitions of Robert Cecil, 1st Earl of Salisbury, the younger son of William Cecil, Elizabeth I's trusted advisor. Built in the early 17th century, it replaced the Old Palace of Hatfield,...
The Walled Gardens of England
There's something magical about walled gardens — so ordered, protected and private. Ever since consuming The Secret Garden by Frances Hodgson Burnett as a child, I've been fascinated with them. The high walls, usually brick, create a warm micro-climate,...
Hidcote Manor Garden
Hidcote Manor Garden is one of Britain's best-known Arts and Crafts gardens. Its fame is all the more astonishing as the stunning masterpiece was not designed by a professional landscape architect but by an amateur with a tremendous interest in plants and garden...
The Old Palace, Hatfield House
The Old Palace at Hatfield was the childhood home for all three of Henry VIII's children but is most closely associated with Elizabeth I. During happy periods in her childhood, it was where Elizabeth shared her brother Edward's education. Later, it served as a refuge...
Sudeley Castle
Most of the grand manor houses we see in England have a history involving a lot of ups and downs. Sudeley Castle is the veritable Snakes & Ladders of the genre. The tale began innocuously enough with a commonplace event: William le Boteler of Wem married heiress...
Harewood House Part II
Good day, everyone, and welcome to Harewood House Part II. Sorry for the delay in providing the sequel to Harewood House Part I. Travel and the holiday season got the better of me in the intervening period, but I'm determined to tie off as many loose ends as I can...
Harewood House
"Where shall we go today?" was the question. Our three weeks in England were almost at an end, and we – Glenn, that is – had done a lot of driving already, so I hesitated to suggest Harewood House, nearly two hours from our self-catering cottage in Derbyshire. He was...
Blenheim Palace Part II
Welcome back to our story about Blenheim Palace, home to the Dukes of Marlborough since 1722. Our last instalment left off as we were about to enter the Library, shown as "H" on the screen-save of the diagram from Wikipedia: As you can see, the library runs the full...
Blenheim Palace
Blenheim Palace. Where to begin... It's a tale of military victory, political intrigue, grandiose plans, clashing personalities, strained finances and ultimately, a massive country house on whose architectural merits opinion remains divided. Many houses fill...
Leeds Castle, Kent
We've been settled in Kent for almost a week now, in a tiny cottage on the grounds of Leeds Castle. One of the benefits of staying on the property is the ability to wander the grounds after everyone has gone home, so we got these night shots a couple of evenings ago...
Montacute House
It's getting to be tulip time here at home, which brought to mind the gorgeous display we saw at Montacute House on one of our visits to England. While red and yellow tulips are not my favourite combination, they are stunning here. The colour is just eye-popping,...
Chatsworth
Chatsworth was the highlight of our trip to Derbyshire. Seat of the Duke & Duchess of Devonshire, this property has made the transition from fusty country estate to a historical entity pulsating with energy and vitality. It is no wonder it's been selected as the...
Sissinghurst Castle
It has been a lifelong ambition of mine to see the great gardens of England, and Sissinghurst Castle was top of the list. The home of Vita Sackville-West and her husband, Harold Nicolson, together they created one of England's most beautiful and famous gardens. ...
Stourhead, Wiltshire
We are settled in Bath now for about a week, and have begun visiting some of the splendid country house estates with which England is so richly endowed. Famous for its breathtaking gardens, Stourhead was our first destination.
Towns & Cities
Streets have long memories.
Market squares, city walls, Georgian terraces, industrial quarters and medieval lanes reveal how communities grew, prospered, struggled and reinvented themselves over centuries.
A Very Cotswold Christmas: Burford, Breakfast, and the Blessings of Country Life
There’s something delightfully unhurried about the rural British approach to the festive season. While city lights dazzle and department stores pulse with urgency, in the countryside, Christmas arrives by way of gardens, greenhouses, and the smell of mulled cider. On...
England in the Autumn Part III
Picking up from England in the Autumn Part II, we departed from South Lodge at Montacute. We were going to Grantham to stay at another National Trust self-catering cottage, No. 1 Belton, on the Belton Estate. The house was built in 1896 for the Clerk of Works, a...
England 2023 Week #3—Northumberland to Bibury
The final leg of our journey started with a five-and-a-half-hour drive—from Beverley in Northumberland to Amberley, near Arundel, to attend the Goodwood Revival. As described on their website, the Revival is The only historic motor race meeting to be staged entirely...
England Week #1—London to Derbyshire
We've been back from England for a few weeks now and are now fully recombobulated. I was determined to promptly process all the photos I took on the journey and set myself the task of going through all 1693 photos at the rate of 100 a day. That's done (whew). So now...
Durham Cathedral
After four lovely days in Northumberland staying at Eshott Hall, we wended our way southward towards Yorkshire. The lively and interesting people we met at Eshott Hall were all from England, and there was no shortage of advice on what stop to make on the relatively short journey. Ripon Cathedral, the town of Durham and its Cathedral, and Beamish all made the list. So many choices – so little time!
England in the Autumn Part II
Following our time in England in the Autumn. Determining which train to take to Chichester was more complicated than I had envisioned. Staff shortages, line repairs, and similar disruptions ruled out the usual route from Victoria Station. Lauren and I eventually...
England in the Autumn
The long-awaited, oft-rescheduled trip to England was a heady mix of emotions: apprehension as to how difficult it might be to navigate changing requirements, elation at the freedom of travelling again, disappointment and frustration with the National Trust, amusement...
Burford & Chipping Campden
Let's do a little armchair travelling to the beautiful Cotswold villages of Burford and Chipping Campden. Like many people, we have postponed our overseas trips for now; I'll use the found time to catch up on photos of past trips and let the world gradually come to...
Christ Church College, Oxford
There are few places to rival the beauty of southern England, especially on a sunny day. We had visited Oxford a number of times, but for whatever reason, we had never seen Christ Church Cathedral and it was on my list to photograph. (I've now done 34 of the 42...
Castle Combe
Castle Combe is the quintessential English Village. Located in Wiltshire, it's about 5 miles NorthWest of Chippenham. "Chocolate Box" perfect is how it has been described, though Britons think it looks more like a Hollywood film set than an actual village and for good...
London at Christmas
We are in London, our final stop on this whirlwind tour of England at Christmastime. Always a vibrant city, it pulsates with light during the festive season. Let's start on Oxford Street, a well-known shopper's destination. Pink and white globes are festooned across...
Entertablement Abroad: Borough Market, London
How many food markets have enjoyed their own millennial celebration? As in, one for their thousand-year history? Back in the day, when the Danes were enthusiastically sacking England, the Anglo-Saxon King Ethelred the Unready still had a few tricks up his...
Oxford, England
The first episode of Series 5 of Endeavour, the British detective drama prequel to the long-running Inspector Morse series, is airing this evening on ITV in England. Then what exactly am I doing sitting in my house in Canada? Grrrr!!!! No word yet on when Series 5...
Out and About in London
We're back in England for a few weeks, and started our trip in London this time. London. Gotta love it. Beautiful architecture, wonderful food and gorgeous shopping arcades. This one is on Regent Street. Our usual schedule is to take an overnight flight, land at...
Breakfast at The Wolseley, London
Breakfast at the Wolseley is one of the first ports of call whenever we are in London. Located in the former Wolseley motor car showroom on Piccadilly at St. James' Street, it has strong Venetian and Florentine architectural details as well as the...
Chilham
While we were staying in Kent, a local suggested we visit Chilham. It's a gorgeous little unspoilt village so typical of England. Only a few building surround a square, but they are so quintessentially British that you can't help but smile. These unexpected, unplanned...
Harrogate
Harrogate is a very special place for me. My paternal grandparents lived there most of their married life before emigrating to Canada in the 1960s, where they took up residence next door to my family.
The Town of York
The next day we set off for York. A comfortable walking distance from Middlethorpe Hall, we headed for the road along the river. The road was busy with cars heading for the York races. The event seemed to be exceptionally well organized, and traffic, both foot and...
Winchester
The historic walled cathedral town of Winchester is really beautiful, with winding picturesque streets, tudor, stone & brick houses and lots of attractive shops that beckon you to stroll and browse. It is home to Winchester Cathedral, University of Winchester and the famous public school, Winchester College. Until sometime after the Norman conquest, it was the capital of England.
The New Forest, England
We are back in England for another deep dive visit. This time we are starting in what I call “middle Sussex”, primarily to attend the Goodwood Revival, my better half being a vintage sports car nut. We are then on to Derbyshire to continue our exploration of country houses, castles, and of course, tuck into as many great meals as two people can reasonably manage.
Bath
We’ve been in Bath for almost a week now, much to the surprise of everyone we meet here. Usually tourists come for only a day or so, but we have been very comfortably ensconced in a flat in the Royal Crescent, arranged through Rural Retreats.
Tavistock, Devon
Still in awe of the cheese tray at Bovey Castle, we set off for Tavistock in pursuit of cheese. Right behind the town market, we were told, you’ll find the shop. And we did! Country Cheeses.
Unique Places to Stay
Sometimes the best way to understand a historic place is to live in it for a while.
From gatehouses and converted follies to houses embedded in historic estates, these are places where the past becomes, temporarily, home.
Staying in England’s Historic, Cultural, and Scenic Heartlands
Our trips to England almost always begin or end in London, where we typically spend several days staying near St James’s or Westminster, and occasionally farther north into Mayfair. In years past, we greatly enjoyed The Stafford London and the St James's Club Hotel,...
A Very Cotswold Christmas: Burford, Breakfast, and the Blessings of Country Life
There’s something delightfully unhurried about the rural British approach to the festive season. While city lights dazzle and department stores pulse with urgency, in the countryside, Christmas arrives by way of gardens, greenhouses, and the smell of mulled cider. On...
England in the Autumn Part III
Picking up from England in the Autumn Part II, we departed from South Lodge at Montacute. We were going to Grantham to stay at another National Trust self-catering cottage, No. 1 Belton, on the Belton Estate. The house was built in 1896 for the Clerk of Works, a...
England — East Anglia and Kent
Though we were in England for only ten days on this trip, it was jam-packed with houses, castles, and gardens. The first leg of our journey was exploring the Royal Palaces In and Around London. From there, we drove to Essex to The Head Gardener's House at Audley End,...
England 2023 Week #3—Northumberland to Bibury
The final leg of our journey started with a five-and-a-half-hour drive—from Beverley in Northumberland to Amberley, near Arundel, to attend the Goodwood Revival. As described on their website, the Revival is The only historic motor race meeting to be staged entirely...
Burford & Chipping Campden
Let's do a little armchair travelling to the beautiful Cotswold villages of Burford and Chipping Campden. Like many people, we have postponed our overseas trips for now; I'll use the found time to catch up on photos of past trips and let the world gradually come to...
Hartwell House
“Daffodils, that come before the swallow dares, and take the winds of March with beauty” (Shakespeare, Winter’s Tale, act 4, sc. 4) Daffodils abound at Hartwell House, swirling in colourful drifts around the historic house-cum-hotel. Anyone who has ever planted...
Valentina’s Lost Orangery
We are finishing up our time in England and head home tomorrow. In my spare moments throughout the trip, I've been busily sorting and processing photos in an attempt to wrestle more than 2,000 of them into a workable number for future blogs. The good news is I've...
Leeds Castle, Kent
We've been settled in Kent for almost a week now, in a tiny cottage on the grounds of Leeds Castle. One of the benefits of staying on the property is the ability to wander the grounds after everyone has gone home, so we got these night shots a couple of evenings ago...
The Hunting Tower, Chatsworth
We are very comfortably situated at the Chatsworth Hunting Tower, and have had a marvellous few days visiting Haddon Hall, Hardwick Hall and the exhibit at Chatsworth itself, House Style, Five Centuries of Fashion. More to come on all of these adventures! The...
Sissinghurst Castle
It has been a lifelong ambition of mine to see the great gardens of England, and Sissinghurst Castle was top of the list. The home of Vita Sackville-West and her husband, Harold Nicolson, together they created one of England's most beautiful and famous gardens. ...
Cliveden
On our last night before we left for Sissinghurst, we went to Cliveden for dinner. An Italianate mansion set among 375 acres, it's most famous for being the home of Nancy Astor and her cronies (do women have cronies?) during the roaring 1920s and more subdued 1930s....
The Five Arrows
We had heard marvellous things about The Five Arrows, on the property at Waddesdon Manor and made reservations for dinner one night. We had enjoyed an excellent lunch at Waddesdon itself on our earlier visit, and eagerly awaited our meal at the sister restaurant. It didn’t disappoint! The food was excellent, the surroundings were charming, and the staff attentive.
Luton Hoo
Working our way south, our next stop was the Luton Hoo, an English Country House turned hotel in Bedfordshire. It would be our base for the next few days. (A “hoo” is a Saxon word meaning the spur of a hill, for those similarly perplexed by the name.)
Middlethorpe Hall
Leaving Durham, we drove southward towards Middlethorpe Hall, a William and Mary Country House built in 1699 and now the property of the National Trust. This would be our home base for the next few days. We had unwittingly booked our stay during the York Races, (what were we thinking??), and it turned out that the racecourse was just up the road from the hotel. Consequently, we were met with a bustle of activity upon our arrival, and were quickly caught up in the infectious enthusiasm for the event.
Eshott Hall
Landing at Heathrow after an overnight flight, we picked up the rental car and headed for Northumberland, which is about a five-hour drive from London. I had slept well on the plane, and dozed in the car, but Glenn was quite road-weary by the time we arrived at Eshott Hall.
Bovey Castle, Dartmoor National Park
We spent a wonderful few days at Bovey Castle in Dartmoor National Park. By English standards, the hotel has a very short history – built in the early 20th century by the WH Smith family. It is in a spectacular location, set amid a world-class golf course in rolling countryside.