Britain
Britain wears its history unusually close to the surface.
Castles became houses, monasteries became ruins, medieval streets grew into modern towns, and gardens and great estates changed with the generations that inherited them.
Across the country, buildings and landscapes preserve evidence of how people lived, worshipped, governed, worked and adapted.
Explore Britain through the places where those stories can still be seen.
Castles & Stately Homes
Power, ambition, comfort and taste, written in stone.
From medieval strongholds to great country houses, these places reveal how Britain’s rulers, landowners and families lived—and how their homes adapted as the world around them changed.
Harewood House
"Where shall we go today?" was the question. Our three weeks in England were almost at an end, and we – Glenn, that is – had done a lot of driving already, so I hesitated to suggest Harewood House, nearly two hours from our self-catering cottage in Derbyshire. He was...
Syon Park Part II
At the end of Syon Park, Part I, we left off in the Long Gallery, Shall we resume our tour? At 41.3 metres long by 4.2 metres wide, one can see why it was named the Long Gallery. This magnificent room takes up the entire east front of the house, a stretch of eleven...
Syon Park Part I
Syon Park is the London home of the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland. Set in a such a splendid park, visitors have difficulty realizing the estate is a mere nine miles from Charing Cross Station. Syon doesn't show up on the usual roster of recommended houses, as...
Hartwell House
“Daffodils, that come before the swallow dares, and take the winds of March with beauty” (Shakespeare, Winter’s Tale, act 4, sc. 4) Daffodils abound at Hartwell House, swirling in colourful drifts around the historic house-cum-hotel. Anyone who has ever planted...
Chatsworth at Christmas
The rain had eased somewhat as we made our way from the Chatsworth Christmas Market into the house itself. We had picked up some clues that the Christmas theme was going to be Fairy Tales, and on our evening visit, saw the courtyard lit up with spooky shadows of...
Chatsworth’s Christmas Market
In planning our trip to explore England at Christmas, we knew we'd have to be pretty selective. There is so much to see, it's easy to get carried away, overbook and end up exhausted by hurtling from one place to the next. So we decided to divide the trip into three...
Inside Waddesdon at Christmas
Now we get to step inside the house and see what they've done for Christmas! The house is shut completely for a week in early November and a horde of National Trust volunteers set to work decorating a sub-set of the rooms that are usually open to visitors. No...
Christmas Market at Waddesdon
If there was ever a fairytale setting for a Christmas market, it has to be Waddesdon Manor. Locations, find me a dream! Coming right up, ma'am. While we are frequent visitors to England, our visits usually revolve around the vintage racing schedule, (Mr...
Haddon Hall, Derbyshire
If a thousand-year-old manor house could possibly be described as comfortable, Haddon Hall would fit the bill. Its history is mild; little violence, no Cromwellian slighting, just a Ducal manor passing gently down the centuries accompanied by only a bit of skirmishing...
Dyrham Park
Dyrham Park is a beautiful baroque English manor house just outside of the town of Bath in Somerset. You may recognize the house from its appearance in The Remains of the Day starring Anthony Hopkins and Emma Thompson. On a previous visit to Bath, we kept driving by...
Croft Castle
Croft Castle has been home to the Croft family for a thousand years, give or take, with only a short interruption. This is remarkable even in England, where houses are often passed down through several generations; ten centuries is quite a span of time! The...
Blenheim Palace Part II
Welcome back to our story about Blenheim Palace, home to the Dukes of Marlborough since 1722. Our last instalment left off as we were about to enter the Library, shown as "H" on the screen-save of the diagram from Wikipedia: As you can see, the library runs the full...
Blenheim Palace
Blenheim Palace. Where to begin... It's a tale of military victory, political intrigue, grandiose plans, clashing personalities, strained finances and ultimately, a massive country house on whose architectural merits opinion remains divided. Many houses fill...
Chatsworth Insect Brooches
"Debo", the late Dowager Duchess of Devonshire, collected insect brooches, among other quirky things such as Elvis memorabilia. Really. Elvis... As part of the House Style exhibit we saw on our recent tour of Chatsworth, a number of the brooches were imaginatively...
Chatsworth Dining Room Fashions
The dining room was the pièce de résistance of the House Style - Celebrating Five Centuries of Fashion exhibition we saw during our recent visit to Chatsworth whilst staying at the Hunting Tower. Not only was the table beautifully, set, the entire room was staged...
Leeds Castle, Kent
We've been settled in Kent for almost a week now, in a tiny cottage on the grounds of Leeds Castle. One of the benefits of staying on the property is the ability to wander the grounds after everyone has gone home, so we got these night shots a couple of evenings ago...
The Hunting Tower, Chatsworth
We are very comfortably situated at the Chatsworth Hunting Tower, and have had a marvellous few days visiting Haddon Hall, Hardwick Hall and the exhibit at Chatsworth itself, House Style, Five Centuries of Fashion. More to come on all of these adventures! The...
Arundel Castle—Home to the Dukes of Norfolk since the 11th Century
As far as castles go, Arundel is an exceptional example. No moat (at least, no wet moat, and frankly, what other kind is there)? Nonetheless, a magnificent castle. Guarded by an impressive gatehouse, the approach to the castle sets the tone for what is to come. Solid...
Montacute House
It's getting to be tulip time here at home, which brought to mind the gorgeous display we saw at Montacute House on one of our visits to England. While red and yellow tulips are not my favourite combination, they are stunning here. The colour is just eye-popping,...
Chatsworth
Chatsworth was the highlight of our trip to Derbyshire. Seat of the Duke & Duchess of Devonshire, this property has made the transition from fusty country estate to a historical entity pulsating with energy and vitality. It is no wonder it's been selected as the...
Chartwell
Chartwell, the adult home of Sir Winston Churchill, is a lovely, warm family home in Kent, England. During the 1920s, while he held political office, it served mostly as a weekend home for Churchill, his wife Clementine and their four...
Chilham
While we were staying in Kent, a local suggested we visit Chilham. It's a gorgeous little unspoilt village so typical of England. Only a few building surround a square, but they are so quintessentially British that you can't help but smile. These unexpected, unplanned...
Scotney Castle
Settled in our base at the Priest's House at Sissinghurst, we enjoy daily forays to sister National Trust properties and other points of interest. Today, our destination was Scotney Castle, a kind of two-for-one special. The property features an English country house...
Bodiam Castle
Bodiam is the poster-child for English Castles - literally. It's the one you see in all the travel advertisements in airports and train stations. I had always longed to see it, and it was high on the agenda long before we got to the Kent portion of our...
Abbeys, Monasteries & Churches
For centuries, religious houses stood at the heart of British life.
Their surviving buildings and ruins tell stories of worship, learning, wealth, community, upheaval and adaptation—from medieval foundations through Reformation and beyond.
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The Cathedral Project
Britain’s cathedrals are history in layers.
Norman arches, Gothic vaults, chantry chapels, shattered shrines and Victorian restorations preserve centuries of changing belief, architecture and ambition. Explore them through stories, a timeline, map and architectural tapestry.
Coventry Old Cathedral
The ruins of the Cathedral Church of St Michael are a haunting site. Built between the late 14th and early 15th centuries, a shell is all that remains following the massive attack by German bombers on the night of November 14, 1940. Originally one of the largest...
Derby Cathedral
Derby is a reasonably recent inductee into the Cathedral ranks—1927, to be precise. That's when the parish church of All Saints became Derby Cathedral. Of the medieval church, only the tower remains. The rest fell victim to the ambitions of the then vicar Michael...
Durham Cathedral
After four lovely days in Northumberland staying at Eshott Hall, we wended our way southward towards Yorkshire. The lively and interesting people we met at Eshott Hall were all from England, and there was no shortage of advice on what stop to make on the relatively short journey. Ripon Cathedral, the town of Durham and its Cathedral, and Beamish all made the list. So many choices – so little time!
Ely Cathedral
As cathedrals go, Ely Cathedral is one of the biggies. Literally, at 537 ft long, but also because of its story, which began in 672. A lot has happened in the intervening 13+ centuries. Not just the usual political squabbling and overly ambitious clerics, but...
Exeter Cathedral
Exeter is a scrumptious frothy wedding cake of a cathedral with the longest continuous vault in Europe. While it retains its sturdy Norman towers, the majority of what we see today is of the exuberant Decorated gothic design and was completed around 1400. Following...
Gloucester Cathedral
When on holiday, some people do pub crawls. I tend more to Cathedral marathons, and Gloucester Cathedral is one of my all time favourites, largely due to the cloisters, the quadrangle of ancillary buildings to the Cathedral proper. Aren't they gorgeous? They were...
Guildford Cathedral
Guildford Cathedral is the last of the Church of England Cathedrals to be built on a new site and one of only three built in the twentieth century—the other two are Coventry and Liverpool. Fearing the worst, particularly in light of my distaste for Coventry, I was...
Hereford Cathedral
On this most poignant of Remembrance days, the centenary of Armistice Day of WWI, let's have a look at the display of ceramic poppies which has been making its way around the UK since August 2014. We visited the Weeping Window display at Hereford Cathedral this past...
Leicester Cathedral
The venerable Church of St Martin, Leicester, was late to the Cathedral party, being elevated to Cathedral status only in 1922. Built on the site of Roman ruins, it is very likely one of the six churches referred to in the Domesday book of 1086. Its namesake is a...
Lichfield Cathedral
On Maundy Thursday we left Fox Cottage in Bretforton and drove to Lichfield. The plan was to see Lichfield Cathedral in the morning and Shugborough Estate, home of the Earl of Lichfield in the afternoon. The best laid plans... We usually confine ourselves to one...
Lincoln Cathedral
In 1307, Lincoln Cathedral's central tower spire was the tallest manmade structure in the world. At a soaring 525 feet, it was higher than the great pyramid at Giza. Unfortunately, a gale brought it down to earth in 1549. But I'm getting ahead of myself. So let's...
Liverpool Cathedral
It's big. Enormous. I'd even go so far as to say it's monstrous, as in "an imaginary creature that is typically large, ugly and frightening" monstrous. Except it's not imaginary. It's all too real. Liverpool Cathedral is the largest Cathedral, nay, religious building,...
Manchester Cathedral
Manchester Cathedral, or the Cathedral and Collegiate Church of St Mary, St Denys and St George as it's more formally known (because you need three saints to round things out), was on the agenda for our trip this last December. Manchester has one of the better...
Newcastle Cathedral
Newcastle Cathedral is the seat of the northernmost diocese of the Church of England, reaching all the way up to Berwick (pronounced "Berrik")-upon-Tweed in Northumberland. Newcastle experienced a massive increase in its population in the mid-19th century, igniting...
Norwich Cathedral
Norwich Cathedral embodies the single-minded ambition of its first bishop, Herbert de Losinga. A controversial figure, our Herbert. He secured his position through bribery and displayed equal contempt for Norwich's local citizenry, dispossessing and demolishing about...
Peterborough Cathedral
The origins of the Cathedral Church of St Peter, St Paul and St Andrew hark back to 655 AD when the site was one of the earliest monastic settlements in central England. All went on swimmingly until 854 when the Viking "Great Heathen Army" led by "Ivar the Boneless"...
Portsmouth Cathedral
Petite Portsmouth is one of the later recruits to the fold of English Anglican Cathedrals. Cobbled together over the centuries, we have a building that grew from east to west, in the reverse direction to the construction of most of its brethren. The weather vane on...
Ripon Cathedral
For all its storied history, as cathedrals go, Ripon Cathedral is surprisingly modest and unassuming. The current building is the fourth incarnation.The first was begun in 660 by St. Wilfred, abbot of the monastery at Ripon. It consisted of a stone bascilica in the...
Rochester Cathedral
Founded in 604 by Justus, the Bishop of Rochester, St Augustine's first bishop, Rochester Cathedral had the dubious distinction (along with Carlisle and Chichester) of being an "impoverished see"—making it an unpopular appointment within the church, as it came without...
Salisbury Cathedral
Salisbury Cathedral, also known as New Sarum, is blessed with several unique attributes. First is its architectural consistency. Barring the tower and spire, it was constructed all in one go between 1220 and 1258, a mere 38 years, in a mature Early Gothic style....
Sheffield Cathedral
Sheffield is one weird cathedral. It started, like many others, as a parish church. A nice, ordinary roots-in-the-12th-century church, begun when the City of Sheffield was established by William de Lovetot (yes, seriously). Here it is in 1819, a little battered from...
Southwark Cathedral
With its southeast corner a mere 18 metres from the main railway viaduct connecting London Bridge station to Blackfriars, Cannon Street and Charing Cross stations, one has to concede that Southwark Cathedral is smack dab in the middle of the bustling activity that...
Southwell Minster
Southwell Minster is renowned for its exquisite medieval carved stonework, second to none in any English Cathedral. The deeply undercut foliage, often with glimpses of wildlife and green men beneath, is truly spectacular. But we are getting ahead of ourselves. So...
St Albans Cathedral
St Albans is the red-headed stepchild of cathedrals, poor thing. Conceivably the oldest known site of Christian worship in England, and at 85 metres, the longest nave of any of the cathedrals, it's a crazy quilt of design. It sits perched on a hill above the Roman...
Gardens
Gardens are never merely decorative.
They reflect changing ideas about beauty, nature, status and leisure—from formal geometry and sweeping landscapes to Arts and Crafts borders and the intensely personal gardens of individual owners.
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Towns & Cities
Streets have long memories.
Market squares, city walls, Georgian terraces, industrial quarters and medieval lanes reveal how communities grew, prospered, struggled and reinvented themselves over centuries.
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Unique Places to Stay
Sometimes the best way to understand a historic place is to live in it for a while.
From gatehouses and converted follies to houses embedded in historic estates, these are places where the past becomes, temporarily, home.
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